The Old Man Saves The Day! Convertor Issues FINALLY SOLVED!



We were finally able to figure out why our convertors were giving us so much trouble. My dad saved the day and helped us get everything figured out! So thank you to him.

49 Comments

  1. On this subject. We went thru some rookie education with our 70' Dodge Dart Swinger…we were running a 77' 360 mated to a A727. The issue we had was the difference between weighted and unweighted flywheel/flexplate and " " converters. We had ordered from Jegs an SFI flexplate that arrived as a solid plate with one side having a " Bite out of it " — which looks like it should " clear " the weight that was welded on the Houghes converter…but the two would NOT line up !!. Wanna know the answer ???
    We had ordered BOTH a weighted flexplate AND converter !!!. Once we figured that out…we ended up using a new stock unweighted flexplate with our weighted converter. Problem solved….though future tech inspection would DQ it for competition. We also experienced a problem with a stock converter in a PG behind a mild thumper cammed 283..everytime we dropped it in gear it would load stall / kill the engine…I ordered a BossHogg higher stall converter…problem solved…so weird.

  2. I have a '97 Dakota Club Cab with a Twin Turbo Mangum 5.9L with a 4L80E transmission. So I understand the combination. And Ibelieve the 5.7L shares the same bolt pattern as the 340.

  3. You will need to mill off all of the extra portion of the ears, not just a slice out of the backside of each to clearance the ring gear, (as once the snout and gear of the starter is up against the ring gear, as those pads rotate around, they would whack the starter drive gear).

    Klingon parts do suck for sure. But, am glad you are getting a true handle on what the issue really was, and once the same weight is removed from all 3 ears in chips on the mill, the balance of the converter should be very close to the same since they mirror bolted up to one another, and appear to be about the same amount of material each to be removed from the 3 ears.

    The ears can always be replaced by a good converter shop, and if you get any strange harmonics, it can always be reworked and re- balanced. Tight spaces are tough to work in, glad fresh eyes, and careful measurements are bringing resolution as 1-1/8th" is perfect air gap of 1/8"-3/16" once mated up, as long as pump gears, stator, and turbine are all engaged.

  4. Since yall decided to mill it down and now ear will be on top of the starter ring gear double check and make sure ears don't interfere with the starter or anything else. Poly better option to just cut them completely off

  5. The MopChevOrd is gonna be fast….You were very close to throwing the 727 in, until that created 5 other fixes that would need to be accomplished to fully de-Klingon it….Gotta love hybrid race cars dropped onto a Mopar purist. I feel for ya Jeff!

    Once that reworked driveshaft is installed, it will be near bulletproof and father/ daughter /shop supervisor and boyfriend approved safer with that narrowed Moser.

    Of course then it will almost be time to make it another "bottle baby" so Allison can join the "bangin' it through the motor bunch"…A daddy's work is never done, Jeff is probably engineering the fire suppression system as he sleeps.

  6. Sometimes it does help to have a different set of eyes when you get stump or have issues that you can’t figure out glad to see it getting figured out and to see it being fixed soon and going to get done and back together and hope to see it on the track

  7. You should cut off all of tab not just notch as the remaining tab will cause interference with the starter. Just think it will hit the starter nose

  8. Swear y’all… love these videos. The funny quips, how you all are showing the work behind the scenes… love it all. “Five lashings” lol

  9. Surely there's a Converter that is made for that Application that fits that Flexplate? Before Milling the ears on the Converter, maybe talk to the Converter supplier? Just my 2 cents!

  10. Interesting tip for GM transmissions. You should have 1.100 inch back from the bellhousing to the bolt flange when the converter is fully seated.

  11. I am so glad to see you got it figured out. I have never messed around with any mopar stuff so I have never seen this issue before but that is a strange issue to have. I love it when Jeff and Bill get together they can be so funny together.

  12. I knew what it was from last time , guess u don't read comments, told ya few vedios and comments back ,that it was the flywheel and a recessed r flywheel the two don't interchangeable

  13. GM use's two different diameter flywheels one is 153 tooth flywheel and the other is 168 tooth most aftermarket convertors are made to work on both flywheels …….. you just cut off the larger flywheel bolt holes (the 168 tooth) but most SFI 168 tooth flywheels are drilled for both convertor bolt patterns so you can still use that convertor on a GM 168 flywheel with both sets of holes ….. or add the holes! love the project!

  14. I have a sbf with a 8in converter behind it .. it has like 4 arms that are about 2inches ling that have studs in them .. they reach out and go into the flywheel and there's nuts that go on them to fasten them to the flywheel ..in rogersville Tn I broke all 4 arms off the converter .. I work in a welding shop so I brought it to work welded them back on and put it back together I have absolutely no vibration from mine. If I was a betting man I'd bet you won't have a vibration neither

  15. Love this build, I just purchased a 73 and intend to do basically everything you’ve done. Subframe wise and a cage. But a different drivetrain. I’m right behind Allison in this will be my first car that will be built more for the strip. Thank you guys for all of the information and sharing knowledge. Can’t wait to see your Dart back on the track.

  16. Hopefully someone chimed in and said 1" minimum from bell face back to converter pads.

    Just for reference I had to take 2mm's off of my 6.0 spacer for my Coan to work properly.

  17. Kid next time instead of carrying transmissions & converters around, just bring the old man his favorite dessert & tell him he can't have it until Hes in your truck! Then drag him wherever & have him look at your junk 😂😂😂😂! Also, converters are balanced, but not as close as you might think! So just grind those tabs down enough to fit in the flywheel & stick it in! As long as your not getting close to the bolt holes, it will be fine! The balance stuff is real important on the flywheel & balancer, for external balanced engines, like the Mopar & Ford stuff! I would not tell you to do it if I haven't done it before! I promise the hand grinder would be fine! I wish I knew you were having a problem with a 727, if that's what you had! Because I'm a old man too & I've been there done that! I have seen just about all the 727 issues! Good trans shops, mill off & weld new tabs on converters everyday! Its not a big deal! With anything nonstock, or aftermarket, you have to make sure things are close, & normally have to adjust or slightly modify things to make them work! Its very common! If you get cheap ebay shit, that garbage is usually off by a mile! So don't waste your time or money! You need to find a good ol timer welder! Years ago, we didn't just have money to run somewhere & buy parts! A real good older welder, would clearance the fuel tank in no time! If you street drive in the summer, you really don't want a cell in the trunk! I promise on that also! Good luck! Its good to shut up & listen to guys like your old man! JS!

  18. Same thing happened to me. Nee TCI flex plate and custom converter. HD yo cut the tabs to fit. Luckily noticed upon assembly. Great video Bill.

  19. Will the recessed part on the new converter hit the starter gear when it engages? Hope it doesn’t bind or throw the starter gear off if it hits one of those modified lugs

  20. I'm not sure why I'm so drawn to this video. Maybe Jeff and the old man working so hard together to get Allison on the track. My 8th time watching it

  21. Yeah I did suggest the torque flight 727 with the removal of the accumulator spring and the possibility of an installation of a mister shift kit stage 3 lockout but only because I can see it cheaper and more productive and stronger route not to mention if you buy 65 and older with the cable shift console trannies it's already set up for the cable on the shifter and a much stronger tranny not to mention pre65 has a rear pump in them and can be pushed started at 35 to 40 miles an hour if you read the manual all rear pump trannies are push startable nonetheless it belongs in there and if you need to upsize the gearing and make first and second your two speed automatic and leave third way up there for highway you got that too well good luck with that Chevrolet morphodite Mopar LOL I hope when the hemi goes in we see a tranny based on holding up to severity in the beating hemi's are known to be productive destroyers and I have been through a lot of turbo 350s and two speed powerglides in fact the sun gears really really really under high stress explode basically they don't come apart but they crack in four pieces and your left sitting with the rig wanting to go in drive& reverse at the same time same with the front pump as you usually is generated on those well from a die-hard Mopar fan to half of another LOL again the best of luck cuz I do enjoy your content and we'll be watching for more

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